Ever since I laid my eyes on Lion Brand Mandala Yarn I’ve wanted to get my hands on it. Unfortunately, almost as soon as it made its debut it was sold out! I have been waiting for months and I have finally found it! I have been able to purchase the yarn through Walmart, but for me, only online. I then had to have it shipped to the store. But I got it!! And hopefully you will too!
Because it has taken me so long to get this yarn, I have known for months what I wanted to make…. a cardigan! I have had this idea in my head for a while to create something that resembled colorblocking. I thought this would be the perfect yarn because I knew I would not have to manually change colors every time I wanted to start a new “block” of color. I also knew that because the way the cardigan is constructed, the colors would not line up on the sides. But I actually LOVE that! It gives the colorblock effect that I way going for! I am absolutely in love with this cardigan! I hope you will be too! Scroll down for the pattern 🙂
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MATERIALS
2 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala Yarn. If you choose to crochet the hood, you will need a third skein. The color in the photos is Pegasus.
NOTE: I chose to create an all white trim to go around the cardigan. The yarn I used is Lion Brand Baby Soft in White. It is a #3 weight yarn just like the Mandala Yarn. You can also use any comparable yarn.
4.5 mm crochet hook
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Tape Measure
Stitch Markers
ABBREVIATIONS
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet Decrease (dc dec)
Skip (sk)
Stitch (st)
SIZING
The cardigan is very roomy. It is written for a size M/L. You will be able to close the cardigan when it is on.
To determine the WIDTH of your cardigan, simply measure from one hip to the next. This will determine how long to make your foundation chain. Note that your foundation chain must be in a multiple of 2.
To determine the LENGTH of your cardigan, simply add more rows when crocheting. Note that the cardigan falls below your rear end. See Pics.
PATTERN
FOR THE BACK:
Ch.84
Row 1 – dc in the 4th ch from the hook and each ch across. (82)
Row 2 – Ch.3 (counts as a dc) turn, dc in the first st and each st across. (82)
Row 3 – Ch.3 turn, sk first st and dc in the next st. Then, go back and dc in the skipped st. *sk next st and dc in the next, 1 dc in skipped stitch* Repeat *til end of row. 1 dc in top of ch.3 of previous row. This row should look like “X’s” (82)
Rows 4 & 5 – Repeat row 3
Rows 6 & 7 – Repeat row 2
Rows 8 thru 10 – Repeat rows 3 thru 5
For rows 11 thru 52 – Repeat rows 6 & 7 and 3 thru 5 respectively.
The pattern repeat is 2 rows of dc followed by 3 rows of X’s.
What your work will look like after 52 rows
The back should measure approx. 27.5″ x 24.5″
SIDE PANEL (make 2)
Ch.30
Row 1 – dc in the 4th ch from the hook and each ch across. (28)
Row 2 – Ch.3 (counts as a dc) turn, dc in the first st and each st across. (28)
Row 3 – Ch.3 turn, sk first st and dc in the next st. Then, go back and dc in the skipped st. *sk next st and dc in the next, 1 dc in skipped stitch* Repeat *til end of row. 1 dc in top of ch.3 of previous row. (28)
Rows 4 & 5 – Repeat row 3
Rows 6 & 7 – Repeat row 2
Rows 8 thru 10 – Repeat rows 3 thru 5
For rows 11 thru 52 – Repeat rows 6 & 7 and 3 thru 5 respectively.
The pattern repeat is the same as the BACK.
Next, Take the BACK and lie it down with the wrong side facing you. Then, take both PANELS and lie them on each side of the BACK with wrong side facing you. Sew both panels to the top of the BACK using the mattress stitch.
MATTRESS STITCH TUTORIAL (click)
Next, measure approx. 8.5″ on each side from the top down. Place stitch marker on each side. Sew each side from the bottom all the way up to where the stitch marker is placed. This creates the armholes.
Next, turn your work right side out.
SLEEVE: (both)
Attach yarn to opening of one of the armholes. Preferably underneath where armpit will be.
Ch.1 and sc all the way around the opening of the armhole. Join to first sc. I ended up with 45 sc’s. If you have a different stitch count, that’s fine. Make sure your stitch count is an ODD number.
Rounds 1 & 2 – Ch.2 dc in same st and each stitch around. join. (45)
Rounds 3 thru 5 – Ch.2 dc in same st, sk next st and dc in the next. 1 dc in skipped st. *sk next st, dc in the next. 1 dc in skipped st* Repeat *til end of round. join. (45)
Rounds 6 & 7 – Repeat rounds 1 & 2
Rounds 8 thru 10 – Repeat rounds 3 thru 5
Round 11 – Ch.2 dc in same st and next 7 stitches, dc dec in next. 1 dc in next 11 stitches, dc dec in next. 1 dc in next 8 stitches, dc dec in next. 1 dc in next 8 stitches dc dec in next. 1 dc in last two stitches. (41)
Round 12 – Ch.2 dc in same st and each st around. join. (41)
Rounds 13 thru 15 – Repeat rounds 3 thru 5 (41)
Rounds 16 & 17 – Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (41)
Rounds 18 thru 20 – Repeat rounds Repeat round 3 thru 5 (41)
Round 21 – Ch.2 dc in same st and next 7 stitches, dc dec in next. *1 dc in next 8 stitches, dc dec in next.* Repeat *til there is one stitch left. 1 dc in last st. (37)
Round 22 – Ch.2 dc in same st and each st around. join. (37)
Rounds 23 thru 25 – Repeat rows 3 thru 5 (37)
Rounds 26 & 27 – Repeat rows 1 & 2 (37)
Rounds 28 thru 30 – Repeat round 3 thru 5 (37)
Round 31 – Ch.1 sc in same st and each st around. join. (37)
Bind off.
Repeat rounds 1 thru 31 for other sleeve.
HOOD: (optional)
Lay cardigan upside down with front side facing you. Attach yarn to one side of the top. SEE PIC BELOW.
Row 1 – Ch.3 (counts as dc) dc along top of opening. 40 dc’s across
Row 2 – Ch.3 turn, dc in first st and each st across. (40)
Rows 3 thru 5 – Ch.3 turn, sk first st and dc in the next st. Then, go back and dc in the skipped st. *sk next st and dc in the next, 1 dc in skipped stitch* Repeat *til end of row. 1 dc in top of ch.3 of previous row. (40)
Rows 6 thru 20 – Repeat rows 1 & 2, and 3 thru 5 respectively
Rows 21 & 22 – Repeat rows 1 & 2
AFTER 22 ROWS FOR HOOD
Next, fold hood in half lengthwise and sew top with mattress stitch.
FOR TRIM:
With yarn of your choosing:
With right side of cardigan facing you, attach yarn to bottom of one of the sides of the opening.
Row 1 – Ch 3 and dc all the way around the opening (hood included). For the trim, the stitch count does not matter. For reference, my stitch count is 260 dc’s.
Row 2 – Ch. 3 turn, dc in first st and each stitch all the way around. For last st, dc in top of ch.3 of previous round.
Round 3 thru 6 – Repeat row 2
Bind off. Weave in all ends!
Wow! This is a beautiful cardigan. Thank you so much for sharing your pattern and your talent.
Hi Cathy!
Thank you so much for your sweet words! I’m so glad you like the pattern!
Round 11 on the sleeve. Can you tell me how to decrease if I have 65 stitches?
Hi Sheryl!
I would decrease by four stitches to end up with 61. Try to space out your decreases so it appears smaller all around.
Wow . . . I have been searching for a cardigan pattern like this for what seems like forever. Thank you for being a blessing and posting this!
Morgan!
I’m so happy you found the pattern! Thank you for your kind words!
Hi
Found this cardigan on Pinterest, it’s fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing. I think the pattern is so strong it’d look great in a single colour, tweed or variegated yarn. Have pinned, cardi is now on my to do list, and am now following your Pins 🙂 happy crocheting!
Thank you so much! I’m so happy you like the pattern! I was actually thinking of making another one is a solid color as well! 🙂
For row 3, the pattern states to
Ch.3 turn, sk first st and dc in the next st. Then, go back and dc in the skipped st. *sk next st and dc in the next, 1 dc in skipped stitch*
How do you go back and dc in the skipped st. I’m a visual person.
Can this pattern be made with Caron Cakes?
Hi Kim!
For row 3 your are skipping every other stitch and crocheting a dc. You then go back and dc in the skipped stitch. So basically you are creating what looks like an “X” with dc’s. You can make this cardigan with Caron Cakes but it will be bigger. The Mandala yarn is #3 weight yarn and the Caron Cakes is a worsted weight #4 yarn. Hope that helps!
Hi..beautiful cardigan!!
I am interested in making it..how would I go about making it in a size 2x?
Hi Robyn!
There are instructions in the blog post that you can view to determine the sizing.
Ok..thank you..I didn’t see it when I read through.I’ll look again.
Hi I just found this cardigan and love it. Can’t wait to try it. I am a little confused about how to tell the right from wrong side of pattern, but my main question is on the seaming of the back and side panels it says to lay back wrong side facing you and the side panels wrong side facing you and to start at shoulder seams. But this isn’t clear to me. Wrong side facing up on both????
Hi Phyllis!
I’m so glad you like the pattern. The right side is always facing you when the tail where you started is at the bottom left. Yes, wrong side facing up on both when competing the seam. You will then turn it right side out when finished. This is so you have a cleaner seam showing on the right side. Let me know if you have any more questions!