A beautiful beaded bag to compliment any casual outfit – My Beaded Crochet Hobo Bag is the perfect accessory for a day out!
Scroll down for the free pattern or you can purchase an ad free version HERE.
Disclosure: There are some affiliate links below, but these are all products I highly recommend. I won’t put anything in this post that I have not personally used or tested.
Have you ever heard of the brand The Sak? If not, they are a company that makes and sells crocheted and leather bags. They feature a wide variety of styles ranging from crossbody to hobo to leather totes. They do sell other accessories but they are primarily known for their bags.
A few weeks back, as I was browsing The Sak website, I came across a beautiful beaded crochet hobo bag. I absolutely fell in love with the design. The more I looked at it, the more I realized I could probably crochet something just like it. I have never crocheted with beads before but I was certainly up for the challenge. I gathered up all the materials I thought I may need and got to work.
Construction and Design
The Beaded Crochet Hobo Bag is made by first crocheting the base. This is created by working in a continual spiral while making increases along the way. You do not join rounds. If you have ever crocheted a hat that is top down, it is very similar. Next is the body of the bag. The first half of the hobo bag body is crocheted in joined rounds. Beads are added as you crochet along. The body portion that does not feature beads is crocheted in a continual spiral.
Adding beads to crochet is a lot easier than I thought it would be!
I then crocheted the strap by making decreases on the one side of the bag, and then ended with the same amount of increases to match the other side. I also added a magnetic button closure that can only be seen from the inside. The entire beaded hobo bag is crocheted only with the single crochet!
I wanted to keep this pattern as beginner friendly as possible.
The yarn I chose for my Beaded Hobo Bag pattern is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn. It is a recycled eco-friendly cotton polyester blend that comes in 20 different colors. It is a very soft worsted weight yarn, and for only $1.99 a skein, you can’t go wrong!
Any comparable cotton yarn would also work well for this project. Some substitute yarns are Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton or Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran.
Be sure to watch my video tutorial below on how you add beads to crochet before you begin the pattern.
Beaded Crochet Hobo Bag Pattern
If you would like to purchase an ad free printer-friendly version of this pattern, please go to my PATTERN shop or you can visit my ETSY or RAVELRY shop.
- PIN this pattern to your Pinterest Boards for later HERE.
3 1/2 Skeins of Lion Brand Re-Up yarn or any comparable yarn. You will need approx. 400 yds.
500 count of 6mm Beads like the kind HERE.
2 Stitch Markers
Single Crochet (sc)
Slip Stitch (ss)
- Do not string beads on the first skein of yarn to crochet the base.
- Bind off and add a new full skein of yarn after you have crocheted the base. You will string your beads on new skein of yarn before you start to crochet the body of the bag.
- Because the beads show on the outside of your work, you will need to to crochet in the opposite direction. You will turn your work so the inside of the bag will be facing you.
- The circular Base is worked in a continual spiral. The Body portion that contains the beads is worked in joined rounds.
- I suggest stringing no more than 150 beads at a time. It can get quite cumbersome if you have too many beads on your working skein of yarn.
- Once you have used all 150 beads, you will need to bind off, string more beads, and then attach yarn again. This sounds more tedious than it actually is, I promise!
BEADED CROCHET HOBO BAG PATTERN
Bag dimensions are approximately 10.5in L (body) x 8.25in W (base) x 22in strap drop length.
Gauge is approximately 15sc across x 18 rows = 4″
- Use a stitch marker to locate the first stitch of each round.
Round 1 – 6 sc in magic circle.
Round 2 – 2 sc in each st around (12)
Round 3 – *sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (18)
Round 4 – Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next. *Sc in next 2 stiches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there is one st left. Sc in last st. (24)
Round 5 – *sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next. Rep* until end of round. (30)
Round 6 – sc in the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 2 stitches left. Sc in last 2 stitches. (36)
Round 7 -*sc in the next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (42)
Round 8 – sc in the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 3 stitches left. Sc in the last 3 stitches. (48)
Round 9 – *sc in the next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (54)
Round 10 – sc in the first 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 4 stitches left. Sc in last 4 stitches. (60)
Round 11 – *sc in the next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (66)
Round 12 – sc in the first 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 5 stitches left. Sc in last 5 stitches. (72)
Round 13 – *sc in the next 11 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (78)
Round 14 – sc in the first 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 12 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 6 stitches left. Sc in last 6 stitches. (84)
Round 15 – *sc in the next 13 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (90)
Round 16 – sc in the first 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next. *sc in the next 14 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until there are 7 stitches left. Sc in the last 7 stitches. (96)
Round 17 – *sc in the next 15 stitches, 2 sc in the next.* Rep* until end of round. (102)
Round 18 – sc dec in the first st, sc in the next 49 stitches. Make a sc dec in the next st, sc in the last 49 stitches. (100)
Slip stitch to first sc of the round. You will now be working in joined rounds for the body. You will now bind off, add beads to a new full skein of yarn, and join new skein to base. Make sure you are now crocheting so the inside of the bag is facing you (side with the tail). You are essentially turning your work so you are crocheting in the opposite direction.
WHAT YOUR BASE WILL LOOK LIKE
Round 19 – Ch.1 and add bead to first sc of the round, sc in the next 3 stitches. *add bead to next sc, make a sc in the next 3 stitches.* Repeat* until end of round. Ss to first sc of round. (100)
Round 20 – Ch.1, sc in the first st and the next, add bead to next sc. *sc in the next 3 stitches, add bead to next sc.* Rep* until there is one stitch left. Sc in last st. Ss to first sc of the round.(100)
Refer to Graph Below
Rounds 21 thru 38 – Repeat Rounds 19 & 20 respectively making sure to place beads on the appropriate stitches.
All rounds for the rest of the beaded hobo bag are crocheted in a continual spiral. Remember to use a stitch marker to locate the first st of each round.
Round 39 – Ch.1, TURN work so right side is facing you. Sc in the same st and each st around. Do not join.
Rounds 40 thru 60 – Continue working a sc in every st of each round.
Slip stitch to the first st of the round after you complete Round 60. Do not bind off!
Row 1 – Ch.1, sc in the same st and the next 27 stitches. (28)
Row 2 – Ch.1 turn, sc dec over the first 2 stitches, sc in every st across. Make a sc dec over the last 2 stitches. (26)
Row 3 – Ch. 1 turn, sc in every st across. (26)
Rows 4 thru 21 – Repeat Rows 2 & 3 respectively making sure to complete a sc dec at the beginning and end of every other row. You will end Row 21 with 8 sc.
Rows 22 thru 130 – Ch.1 turn, sc in every st across. (8)
Row 131 – Ch.1 turn, sc inc in the first st, sc in every st across making a sc inc in the last st. (10)
Row 132 – Ch.1 turn, sc in every st across. (10)
Repeat Rows 131 and 132 respectively making a sc inc at the beginning and end of every other row until you have 28 sc left. You should have a total of 150 rows.
Bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew strap to other side of the hobo bag. I suggest weaving your needle through each stitch twice to ensure a nice sturdy join to the bag.
SEWING STRAP TO BAG:
Line up the free end of your strap with the opposite edge of your bag so you have 22 sc in between your strap on each side. See pics below
EDGING OF BAG:
You may want to use a slightly smaller crochet hook for the edging. It can be a little difficult working into the edge of the strap. This is optional and not necessary.
Attach yarn to edge of opening where the “X” is on the side edge of the bag (see pic below). Ch.1 and make sc’s all the way around the opening of hobo bag, going up the side of the strap, across the length of the strap, down the other side of the strap, and across the side edge. Make a ss to the first sc you made. Bind off. Complete this for the other side of the bag as well. This edging will help keep the strap from stretching.
ADDING MAGNETIC BUTTONS TO HOBO BAG:
Tabs (make 2)
Row 1 – sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. (4)
Row 2 – Ch. 1 turn, sc in each st across. (4)
Rows 3&4 – Repeat Row 2
Bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew tab on the inside of the bag.
Before you sew the tab on the inside of the bag, you need to fasten the magnetic button to the tab. To do this, insert the prongs through the tab, place the washer on top and fold tabs in. You may need pliers or the flat side of a screwdriver to fold the prongs in. Do this for both the top and bottom of the button.
Next, sew tab to the top inside opening of the bag. One tab on each side. See Pics below.
Thank you so much for following along with this Beaded Crochet Hobo Bag pattern. I really hope you enjoy it!
Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook and Instagram so you can tag me with your hobo bags. I would love to see them!
Other Patterns You May Like:
- Asbury Tote / 2. Mochila Bag / 3. Boardwalk Crossbody
Hi Mary!! Love Love Love your patterns!!! I started the Beaded Hobo Bag, and I have a question aout round 4 of the base…..I was wondering if we are supposed to sc in the next 2 sts? It says to sc in only 1!!
Thank you so much for all your patterns. You are amazing!!
Typically you would make a sc in the next 2 stitches, then 2 sc in the next. My only issue with doing the increases like this is that the increases are always in the same space making the base more of an octagon and not a circle. I wanted a nice round base. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have any questions!
Just keep crocheting along with the base. I promise it will start to make sense. 🙂
Thank you for replying so quickly! It makes perfect sense now!
Thanks Again! Rebecca
I’ve had my eye on the SAK Hobo, but the original, (120) looks big, and the smaller, (121) maybe too small. I would love to see one in a store, but haven’t been able to locate one. Not to mention, I haven’t been shopping since the Coronavirus started. I’m thrilled to have found your pattern, your bag is beautiful! Given your dimensions, your pattern looks like it might be a little smaller than the SAK? If I leave the beads off, do you recommend crocheting the body in joined rounds, or can the entire body be worked as a continual spiral? Does working joined rounds help eliminate some of the stretch?
Thank you for sharing your pattern!
The size of my hobo bag is pretty close in size to the one you see on the Sak website. If you leave the beads off you can just crochet in a continual spiral making sure to use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds. I tried adding the beads in a continual spiral but I thought it may be too confusing for a beginner. After wearing the hobo bag for a few weeks, the only stretching I notice is in the strap. I think it’s a preference how long you want the strap to be. Just keep in mind the strap WILL stretch.
Darlene Horbol says
Have you ever put a lining in this bag?
I have put a lining in this bag but you do not need to.