Because summer is still very much alive here in Jersey, I thought it would be fun to create a cover up for the beach days we are still having. The Sandy Shore Cover Up is an easy pattern to work up. It’s a fun and fast project that is made with a very unique yarn. [Read more…]
I love a good cotton yarn. There are so many different types of cotton yarn, that choosing the right one for your pattern can be quite confusing. When crocheting a tote or bag, it’s important to pick a nice sturdy yarn, especially one that will not stretch! [Read more…]
Since summer is in full swing, I thought it would be fun to do a roundup post of some of my favorite warmer weather vest patterns! [Read more…]
The Freesia Top is a great beginner crochet top pattern. Like most of my tops, there is very little sewing involved…yay! I just love the texture of this pattern. It is a very simple cluster stitch that consists mainly of single crochet, double crochet and the slip stitch. [Read more…]
Hi All! I know spring is right around the corner but I wanted to make one last beanie pattern before the warmer weather started to hit. Actually, it hasn’t really been all that warm here. It is still fairly cold most days.
This is going to be my last tunisian project for a bit. I want to get back into traditional crochet. I miss it! I recently posted a pattern for the Tunisian Colorblock Scarf. If you liked that pattern, then you will love this beanie pattern as well because it uses the same stitch! In that post is a tutorial for the Tunisian Half Double Crochet stitch. I would suggest looking over the steps of the stitch before beginning this beanie.
This beanie pattern is worked flat in a rectangle shape, and is then sewn up the side and cinched at the top. There are a few decrease rows that are made as well. I made my own faux fur pom using this tutorial and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out! I love making my own poms because you can make them as big or little as you like! I typically don’t go for soft pink but I though it went really well with the grey and cream.
The yarn I used for this pattern I bought online from Hobium Yarns. If you’ve never heard of them before, they are a turkish based company that sells gorgeous yarn at discount prices. This was my first time buying from them and was not disappointed.
The yarn I used for this beanie is called Kartopu Cozy Wool. It is a #5 bulky weight yarn that is a blend of wool and acrylic. I really like this yarn. It’s very soft and the color choices are endless! Any #5 bulky weight yarn will work for this pattern.
Scroll down to get started!
The Colorblock Tunisian Beanie Pattern
If you would like to purchase an ad-free printer friendly version of this pattern on Etsy, click HERE.
- This beanie pattern is worked flat in a rectangle shape. Decreases are made as you move through the body of the beanie.
- The beanie is sewn up the side and is then cinched at the top.
- Knowledge of the Tunisian Half Double Crochet stitch is needed for this pattern as well as changing colors and binding off. All of these techniques are covered in my Colorblock Scarf post.
- You will NOT Ch.1 before every forward pass.
- Return Pass is the same for all rows throughout the pattern.
Kartopu Cozy Wool yarn in two colors. The colors in the pictures are Cream and Grey. Any comparable yarn will work as well.
6.5 mm afghan/tunisian crochet hook.
Tunisian Half Double Crochet (thdc)
Decrease (dec) – Yo, insert hook through next set of vertical bars and the next set (4 bars altogether). Yo and pull through all 4 vertical bars.
Yarn over (yo)
If you would like to purchase an ad-free printer friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry, click HERE.
With Color A (Grey in the pattern)
Turn chain over, you will be working in the back bump of the chain.
Row 1 – Foundation Forward Pass – Yo, insert hook in back bump of 2nd ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Continue to repeat this in every back bump of chain until you reach the end of the chain. (54st, 107 loops)
Row 1 – Return Pass – Yo, pull through one loop on hook. Then, yo and pull through three loops on hook. Continue to yo and pull through three loops on hook until you have one loop remaining on hook. One row of thdc made!
Row 2 – Forward Pass – Yo, insert hook from right to left through both vertical bars, yo and pull up a loop (3 loop on hook). Continue to yo and work through each set of vertical bars until you come to the end. Remember to work last stitch at the end! (54st, 107 loops)
Row 2 – Return Pass – Same as Row 1
Rows 3 thru 9 – Repeat the forward and return pass as you did in Row 2 (54st, 107 loops on hook)
Row 10 – Forward Pass – Thdc in the first three stitches (remember, first loop on hook counts as a st!) dec in the next. *thdc in the next seven stitches, dec in the next.* Repeat *until there are four stitches left. Thdc in last four stitches. (48st, 95 loops on hook)
Row 10 – Return Pass – Same as Row 1
Row 11 – Forward and Return pass is same as Row 2 (48st, 95 loops on hook)
Bind off leaving long enough tail to sew grey portion closed.
Add Color B (Cream in the pattern)
Row 12 & 13 – Forward and Return pass is same as Row 2 (48st, 95 loops on hook)
Row 14 – Forward Pass – Thdc in the first three stitches, dec in the next. *thdc in the next six stitches, dec in the next.* Repeat* until there are three stitches left. Thdc in last three stitches. (42st, 83 loop on hook)
Row 14 – Return Pass – Same as Row 1
Rows 15 thru 17 – Forward and Return pass is same as Row 2 (42st, 83 loops on hook)
Row 18 – Forward Pass – Thdc in the first three stitches, dec in the next. *thdc in the next five stitches, dec in the next.* Repeat* until there are two stitches left. Thdc in last two stitches. (36st, 71 loops on hook)
Row 18 – Return Pass – Same as Row 1
Row 19 & 20 – Forward and Return pass is same as Row 2 (36st, 71 loops on hook)
Row 21 – Forward Pass – Thdc in the first two stitches, dec in the next. *thdc in the next four stitches, dec in the next.* Repeat* until there are two stitches left. Thdc in last two stitches. (30st, 59 loops on hook)
Row 21 – Return Pass – Repeat Row 1
Row 22 – Forward and Return Pass is same as Row 2 (30st, 59 loops on hook)
Bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew Cream portion closed.
This is what your Beanie should look like so far
Next, fold beanie and sew along the side using the tails you left when binding off.
Then, attach Cream yarn to top and thread needle with a piece of yarn long enough to be weaved in/out of each chain at the top. See pic below
Pull to cinch top of beanie closed. Weave needle in and out to close top of beanie.
Weave in any loose ends!
Add a faux fur pom if you desire!
I am so excited to share this new Tunisian Colorblock Scarf pattern with you. Lately, I have been trying to expand my skills with the tunisian crochet technique and I thought it would be fun to create a colorful and beginner-friendly scarf pattern for you all! [Read more…]
I can’t believe it’s the new year, can you?! A new year means a lot of new designs and patterns. I can’t wait to share them all with you. I have so many ideas swirling around in my head, it’s overwhelming.[Read more…]
I’ve always wanted to crochet my own pair of mittens. When I first learned how to crochet, I would see all these gorgeous patterns for mittens or gloves and thought how difficult they looked to make. I never really gave it a second thought after that. I know I’ve mentioned this before, but I don’t like difficult patterns. I lose interest. Is that just me?
I wanted to make the pattern for these mittens easy. They are worked by starting at the top and working your way down in a continual spiral. You will need to use a stitch marker to keep track of rows. The ribbing is created by making post stitches. The thumb is then crocheted in the round and sewn at the top.
A #3 light weight yarn is used for these mittens. I didn’t want them to be bulky. I know some prefer that look but that is not what I was going for in this pattern.
You can certainly use a bulky weight yarn, or even a worsted weight for this pattern but you will have to adjust your stitch count. The concept is the same though no matter what weight you choose.
I was able to crochet these mittens in only a few hours. If you use a bulky weight yarn they would work up even faster! It is also a great pattern for beginner crocheters!
Scroll down for the pattern 🙂
Sidewinder Crochet Mittens Pattern
- Mittens are crocheted by starting at the top and working your way down in a continual spiral. Do not join. A stitch marker is used to keep track of rounds.
- A #3 light weight yarn is used in this pattern. It is possible to use a different weight yarn just keep in mind that stitch count will be different.
- Thumb is crocheted by joining rounds and then sewn together at the top.
- Ribbing is created by crocheting back and front post stitches.
Any #3 light weight yarn. The yarn I used is Baby Bee Sweet Delight yarn.
4mm Crochet Hook
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Back Loop Only (blo)
Front Post (fp)
Back Post (bp)
Slip Stitch (ss)
All stitches are worked in back loop only (blo) unless otherwise indicated.
Complete 8 hdc in circle. Do not join. Move up stitch marker to first stitch of every round.
Round 1 – Complete 2 hdc in every st around. (16)
Round 2 – hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next. *hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in next.* Repeat *until end of round. (24)
Round 3 – hdc in the first st and the next, 2 hdc in the next st. *hdc in the next two stitches, 2 hdc in the next.* Repeat *until end of round. (32)
Rounds 4 thru 14 – hdc in every st around. (32)
Round 15 – hdc in the first five stitches, (on the fifth st make sure to work through both loops). Next, ch.7 and skip five stitches. Work a hdc in the next st and every st around. (make sure to work first st through both loops). (34)
Round 16 – hdc in every st around. When working in chain, complete hdc in back “bump.” (34)
Rounds 17 thru 21 – hdc in every st around. (34)
Make sure to end round 21 with a slip stitch to first st of the next round.
Round 22 – Ch.1 sc blo in the first four stitches, sc dec in the next. *sc blo in the next six stitches, sc dec in the next.* Repeat *until there are four stitches left. sc in each st. Join w/ss (30)
Round 23 – Ch.1, hdc in the first st and every st around. Join w/ss (30)
Round 24 – Ch.1, fphdc around the first st, bphdc around the next. *fphdc around the next st, bphdc around the next.* Repeat *until end of round. Join with a ss to first st of round. (30)
Rounds 25 thru 29 – Repeat Round 24
Round 30 – Ch.1, sc in the first st and every st around. (30)
Attach yarn to edge of thumbhole and make 13 sc around. Join with a ss.
Rounds 1 thru 13 – Ch.1, sc in every st around. Join with a ss. (13)
Round 14 – Ch.1, sc in the first st, sc dec in every st around. Join with a ss. (7)
Bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew top of thumb closed.
All instructions for the left mitten are the same as the right mitten with the exception of Round 15. Follow all other pattern instructions for the right mitten.
Round 15 – Hdc in the first 22 stitches. (work through both loops on 22nd st). Then, Ch.7 and skip five stitches, hdc through both loops in the next st. Hdc in each of the last four stitches.
Weave in all ends!
If you would like to purchase an ad-free printer friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry, click HERE.
Thanks so much for following along with this pattern. I really hope you like these mittens. Enjoy 🙂
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