Vintage Colorblock Wristers

With this pattern I wanted to change things up a bit and break away from my normal routine of crocheting hats and scarves. The first pair of gloves/wristers I ever crocheted was years ago, and let me tell ya, I don’t think anyone would of been caught wearing them! They were awful! I was very new to crochet, and it showed big time!

Believe it or not, I think I may still have them somewhere. Possibly in a closet or a deep dark abyss haha! Anyway, I knew I wanted to play around with some color combinations for this pattern. I have seen some pretty funky mixture of colors lately and have absolutely loved them!

The yarn I used for this pattern is called Woollike from Loops & Threads from Michaels. This yarn is soooo soft! It comes in so many colors as well! It is a superfine weight (1) yarn. I tried using only one strand of yarn for this pattern. About the fourth row in I knew this pattern would take forever. I ended up using two strands of yarn and I absolutely love the way the wristers came out. They were also very easy to make, I promise! I hope you enjoy the pattern!

Materials

Woollike Yarn from Loops & Threads. You will need three different colors. The colors I used for the pattern are Mauve, Beige and Ice Blue

4mm crochet hook

Scissors

Tapestry Needle

Stitch Marker (optional)

Abbreviations

Chain (ch)

Single crochet (sc)

Foundation Single Crochet (FSC)

Back loop only (blo)

Slip stitch (ss)

Half double crochet (hdc)

Pattern

Using 2 strands of yarn:

For the Right hand

With Mauve

FSC 28, on the 29th stitch join. There is a great video HERE that explains the FSC stitch in the round and how to join. If you are not comfortable with the FSC just ch.29, join with a ss to the first ch., and complete a row of sc.

Round 1 – Ch.1, ss in the same stitch, hdc in the next. *ss in the next stitch, hdc in the next* Repeat *to* ss in the first ss of the round to join. (29)

Note: It is a good idea to make your first ss of every round very loose. It will be easier to not only see the stitch, but also join to when you complete each round. I used a stitch marker so I knew where to locate my ss. This was just for visible purposes, you are joining in each round!

Round 2 – Ch.1, TURN YOUR WORK! ss in the same stitch, hdc in the next. *ss in the next stitch, hdc in the next* Repeat *to* ss in the first ss of the round to join (29)

Rounds 3 thru 8 – Repeat row 2. Remember to turn your work after every row!

Change to Beige:

Round 9 – Ch.1, sc in the same stitch and each stitch around. Join with a ss to the first sc of the round. (29)

Rounds 10 and 11 – Repeat row 10

Round 12 – Ch.1, sc in the same stitch and the next five stitches. Ch.6 and skip the next six stitches. Sc in the next stitch and each stitch around. Join with a ss to first sc of the round. (29)

Rounds 13 thru 21 – Repeat row 10.

Change to Ice Blue:

Round 22 – Ch.1, sc in the same stitch and each stitch around. DO NOT JOIN! (29)

Rounds 23 thru 40 – sc in the BLO of each stitch. Place a stitch marker in the first sc of each round to keep track of your rounds. You will be working in continuous rounds.

The arrow is pointing to where you place your stitch marker

For the left hand

The pattern for the left hand is ALMOST the same as the right except for one round.

Round 12 is different for the left hand.

For round 12 – Ch.1, sc in the same stitch and the next 16 stitches. Ch.6 and skip the next 6 stitches. Sc in the next stitch and the last five stitches of the round. (29)

The difference in the rows is to ensure that the joins (seem) can only be seen on the palm side of the hand!

Bind off and weave in your loose ends!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!